Tioman Climbing Guidebook

Mumbar Cliff

Fever Dreams

★★★★★

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7c 250 m · 9 pitches
First ascent
Jonas Wallin & David Kaszlikowski
Year
2016
Area
Mumbar Cliff
Descent
Abseil the line. From pitch 5 up, a single 60 m rope does it — back-clip or finish hanging in space.
Fever Dreams — clean photo topo with pitch grades (route book source page 23).
Fever Dreams — clean photo topo with pitch grades (route book source page 23).
Fever Dreams — the red line up the prominent pillar (route book source page 21).
Fever Dreams — the red line up the prominent pillar (route book source page 21).
Fever Dreams — handwritten topo and route notes (route book source page 22).
Fever Dreams — handwritten topo and route notes (route book source page 22).
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Pitches
  1. P9 6a 30 m
  2. P8 7a/+ 20 m
  3. P7 6c 20 m
  4. P6 7b 30 m
  5. P5 6c 25 m
  6. P4 7c 40 m The crux. A 7b+/c variation exists — take long draws
  7. P3 6b 28 m Last pitch needing cams
  8. P2 6a/+ 25 m
  9. P1 6c 18 m Only when dry

Approach

From the Nipah–Tunamaya coastal concrete path, head inland up the riverbed following cairns, then onto a cut jungle trail – about 30–40 min from the riverbed to the base. A boat drop at Tunamaya jetty shortens the coastal walk. See Mumbar Cliff.

Character

The first climb opened on Mumbar. Three approach pitches lead to a steep pillar of clean granite; the top six pitches are fully bolted. Named for what the walk-in did to the team.

Gear

Single rack to BD #3 and 16 quickdraws. After pitch 3 no cams are needed — all bolted.

Needs two dry days. Pitch 1 is around 6c when dry and unclimbable when wet.

Remote and committing. Emergency contact Tam Haja +60 12-919 0785 — rescue info.

Logbook & trip reports

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From the Mukut logbook Expedition Mumbar David Kaszlikowski · March–April 2016 Expedition Mumbar (aka Kota Sirau). Jonas Wallin & David Kaszlikowski. First ascent on the wall, first trail up the mountain — "Fever Dreams" route. Reaching the mountain In March/