Tioman Climbing Guidebook
Pulau Tioman · Pahang, Malaysia

Granite towers in the South China Sea

The Dragon's Horns rise straight out of the jungle above Kampung Mukut. World-class rock, climbed since 2000 — and never collected in one place until now.

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Kampung Mukut, from the sea · photo © the guidebook
9

areas along the south coast

25+

established multipitch routes

485 m

longest line — Ironin 3

2000

first ascent of the South Tower

The areas

Walk through the formations below — scroll, click, or use the arrows. Then pick an area, or jump to the route finder to filter every route by grade and length.

H Dragon's Horns — South Tower Gunung Nenek Semukut The main event. Big-wall aid, hard free, and jungle pitches to a summit block called The Wart. 10 routes H Dragon's Horns — North Tower Gunung Nenek Semukut The right-hand fang. One hard route to the summit — and a via ferrata for everyone else. 1 climb + via ferrata E Mumbar Cliff Kota Sirau Steep white granite split by an arête. Slabs left, the steepest wall in the massif right. 3 routes G Batu Sirau “Mystery Pinnacle” A compact pinnacle behind Nenek Semukut. One route, seven pitches, hardest 7b+. 1 route F Bagus Tower above Bagus Place Two trad lines from 2015. Approach path overgrown — bring a machete. 2 routes A/B Puncak Nipah Nipah beach & slabs A bolted single-pitch crag recorded only on a painted board, plus a 200 m adventure line. 2 entries — Puncak Anak “Baby Dragon” A small tower off the CP7 trail. One easy, obvious line up the south side. 1 route D Unclimbed Buttress no access path Marked on the master map as potential for new trad and sport. Nobody has been up it. Undeveloped — Juara Beach east coast Sea cliffs and boulders sketched in a notebook. No names, no grades, no one back since. Undeveloped

Pulau Tioman

What it's like out there

“The Dragon will not let you pass easily.”
Belayed on a ledge, boots over the void, the coast far below.
Belayed on a ledge, boots over the void, the coast far below.
Following the last slab to the belay, the south of the island behind.
Following the last slab to the belay, the south of the island behind.
Abseiling back into the jungle at the foot of the wall.
Abseiling back into the jungle at the foot of the wall.
Looking down at Kampung Mukut and the fringing reef from near the top.
Looking down at Kampung Mukut and the fringing reef from near the top.
From the belayer's stance — a pitch of rope out, jungle and sea below.
From the belayer's stance — a pitch of rope out, jungle and sea below.
Topping out on the South Tower as cloud pours over the summit ridge.
Topping out on the South Tower as cloud pours over the summit ridge.
The North Tower wreathed in cloud, seen from the South Tower.
The North Tower wreathed in cloud, seen from the South Tower.
First sight of the Dragon's Horns — arriving at Mukut by boat.
First sight of the Dragon's Horns — arriving at Mukut by boat.
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