Tioman Climbing Guidebook

Dragon's Horns — South Tower

Waking Dream

★★★★

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7c+ 305 m · 10 pitches
First ascent
Nick Tomlin & Scotty Nelson
Year
2000
Area
South Tower
Descent
Abseil, including a 60 m free rappel below pitch 8
Waking Dream — the original hand topo (The Alcove, Great Roof, Skywalk) beside a photo of the line (route book source page 50).
Waking Dream — the original hand topo (The Alcove, Great Roof, Skywalk) beside a photo of the line (route book source page 50).
Waking Dream — re-bolted anchor topo, pitch by pitch (route book source page 51).
Waking Dream — re-bolted anchor topo, pitch by pitch (route book source page 51).
Waking Dream — anchor topo, alternate photo (route book source page 52).
Waking Dream — anchor topo, alternate photo (route book source page 52).
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Pitches

No pitch-by-pitch record survives for this route. If you have climbed it, the logbook wants your topo.

Approach

From Mukut via the Nenek Semukut trail to the South Tower base (CP5 / CP7, 1–2 h). The route begins on the main face; Ironin 3 starts just to its right.

Character

The route that opened the tower. Originally V 5.9 A2 over five days; later freed at 7c+ by Dave Sharratt and Hank Jones. Big-wall character throughout — The Alcove, The Great Roof, The Skywalk, Garden Terrace.

Gear

Original rack: knifeblades, 2 sets nuts, 2 sets Aliens/TCUs, Camalots, Lost Arrows, hooks, rivet hangers, 60 m ropes.

Re-equipped

Later parties added titanium and stainless glue-ins at most stances; pitches 9 and 10 belay off trees to the summit.

Remote and committing. Emergency contact Tam Haja +60 12-919 0785 — rescue info.