Dragon's Horns — South Tower
Polish Princess
★★★★★
- P8 IV 25 m Jungle climbing to the top, nice boulder
- P7 6c 25 m Great pillar, easy to protect
- P6 6a+ 35 m
- P5 6a 25 m
- P4 7a 40 m Great pillar — climb the right side of the edge
- P3 6b 35 m Run-out slab, easy. Extra pro 2 m above the second bolt
- P2 6c 30 m Big separated boulder 4 m above the belay
- P1 7b+ 45 m Overhanging. Worth splitting in two — watch rope drag
Approach
Tanjung Inn → the trail to CP7, then left – about 10 min from the checkpoint to the base. Short by Dragon’s Horns standards.
Character
The first fully prepared free line to the South Tower summit. Uses Sam Sam as its approach and shares belay R3 with the 2010 Czech route — crossed by accident during the first ascent.
Gear
Full rack of cams to BD #4 plus medium nuts. A 60 m rope climbs it; 70 m makes the abseils cleaner.
Loose rock. On one descent a rope dislodged a block that hit a party member — hospital trip. Anchors are still partly one bolt plus old tat. Helmets, careful rope management, vigilance.
Bolt status · updated
P1 2× thaitanium P2 1× SS 316 + 2× thaitanium P3 1× SS 316 + 1× thaitanium + 1 drilled hole
Remote and committing. Emergency contact Tam Haja +60 12-919 0785 — rescue info.