Tioman Climbing Guidebook

From the Mukut logbook

Polish Princess — run-out slab and a loose block

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Eugénie & Jonathan Knippe  ·  c. 2015–2016  ·  Polish Princess

The attempt

Polish Princess. Another beautiful route. In our single-day attempt we made it to R3 — RUN OUT SLAB.

Notes scribbled on the topo: “add bolt here?” · “Lost time here (unprotectable crack)” · “We built an awkward belay here” · “pitch 0 is about 6b, then moves out left from the belay station are hard — 7 moves, but can be aided easily.”

Our thoughts

  • Approach is easier than Damai Sentosa, and descent is nearly all via the CP trail. About 1.5 h.
  • Anchors are mostly 1 bolt + old nut tied together with tat (or other trad pro) / old rope. If anchors can be upgraded (2 bolts + chain) it would be much easier / faster / safer to attempt.
  • LOOSE ROCKS. Future parties should be very careful and remain vigilant. On descent our rope dislodged a loose rock which fell, hitting one party member. Required a trip to hospital… but got lucky! (this time). Route could use some cleaning.
  • Otherwise, GREAT VIEWS and beautiful rock…

— Eugénie & Jonathan Knippe

Original page
Route book, source page 63
Route book, source page 63

A climber's personal trip report, reproduced for the record. Transcriptions may contain errors — check against the scan where there is one. To have anything credited differently or removed, email [email protected]. See also the Polish Princess route page.