Dragon's Horns — South Tower
Damai Sentosa
★★★★★
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6c+ 280 m · 7 pitches
1 / 4
Pitches
- top scramble — Tough scramble to the summit — no grade
- P7 6b — Hard exit from the belay, it's probably harder than P6 despite the grade
- P6 6b+ —
- P5 6c+ — Crux well bolted. Juggy crux followed by runout slabs
- P4 6c — Mental crux — big runouts, precarious slabs
- P3 6c+ — Crux well bolted; the 8a variation branches here
- P2 6b+ — Take a number 3 cam to slot in the beginning flake
- P1 6a+ — Tree-climb start; the right start is harder
Approach
Tanjung (Simukut) → the hill trail past Simukut Hillview → CP5, then left along the base – 1–2 h. The face is south / south-west, so start early: parties aim to be past the crux before the sun comes round after midday.
Character
A great steep climb on compact rock, almost all bolted, up the south-west pillar. Beautiful view facing the sit. Seven pitches to a tough summit scramble. The most repeated hard route on the tower.
Gear
60 m ropes (50 m should be OK). Max 10 bolts per pitch. Small cams 0.2–2; nothing needed above P3 until the last pitch.
Remote and committing. Emergency contact Tam Haja +60 12-919 0785 — rescue info.