Damai Sentosa — a race against the sun

Damai Sentosa — July 2015 — Tioman ♥

Thanks

First, big thanks to Tam, Uncle Sam and Epple (Apple?) — and food! — for your kindness, hospitality and help. Would have never been able to find the start of the route if it wasn’t for Epple and Stephan showing us the approach the day before. Also big thanks to David Acott for recently adding thaitanium and SS glue-ins to rap stations and the sketchy 7th pitch! (Phew!)

The day

What an adventure! We stashed all our gear the day before so our packs were light for the 2 hr approach. Woke up at 4:15 am and on the trail by 5, at the top of the tree pitch by 7 am. Our goal was to finish the crux pitches before the sun hit at 1 pm. We summited at 5 pm and rapped as the sun set…

Pitch notes

Pitch 2–3 are wandery, Pitch 4 is the mental crux — big runouts but easy climbing. The cruxes on pitch 3 & 5 are very well bolted. Pitch 7 (wet) is harder than the 6b+ pitch 6 before. Lots of slings to sling natural pro — very very helpful. Lots of nut placements when the runouts got spicy. We also brought up a small set of off-sets which proved to be very useful. Be prepared for hard-man bolting and creative pro!

Summited 9th of July 2015. Lee Neale and Kate Sabo. Thanks to Little Planet in Juara for lending us kayaks to get to Mukut! xx

GREAT CLIMB! BEAUTIFUL VIEWS! “Get yo’ crimp on!”