Tioman Climbing Guidebook

Dragon's Horns — South Tower

Naga

★★★★

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6b+ 270 m · 8 pitches
First ascent
Fizi Ishak, Aril Hasril, Dorge @ Apek Langit Biru, Da Liu (Liu Yong)
Year
2017
Area
South Tower
Descent
Walk the summit trail / abseil the line
Naga — photo topo, the purple line with belay stations (route book source page 69).
Naga — photo topo, the purple line with belay stations (route book source page 69).
Naga — logbook topo, 8 pitches (route book source page 65).
Naga — logbook topo, 8 pitches (route book source page 65).
Naga — colour topo with per-pitch bolt counts (route book source page 66).
Naga — colour topo with per-pitch bolt counts (route book source page 66).
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Pitches
  1. P8 5b–5c — Technical scramble into the upper jungle, then the trail
  2. P7 6a —
  3. P6 6b+ — Crux — committing mantle, long runout to the anchor
  4. P5 6a+ — Bushy ground with a big tree
  5. P4 6a — Loose rock
  6. P3 6a+ — Bolt line right of a dirty crack; loose rock
  7. P2 5c — Easy climbing rightwards, then straight up
  8. P1 6a — Small crack; first bolt 5 m up, then the overhang

Approach

Simukut Hillview / Hillview Lodge → the Nenek Semukut trail to CP7, then left and steeply up. The line starts at a tree marked “BC”. The full route is also visible from CP9 on the far side of the peak.

Character

“The Dragon”. Possibly the first locally bolted multipitch on the island with a Chinese climber on the team. A straight line, mostly bolted face climbing with cracks and trees left natural. Visible from CP9.

Gear

1 set of cams, 10 alpine draws, 1 × 70 m or 2 × 50 m ropes, 2 L water each.

Loose rock on pitches 3 and 4. Flagged by both the first and second ascent parties.

Remote and committing. Emergency contact Tam Haja +60 12-919 0785 — rescue info.