Dragon's Horns — North Tower
Tanoshi Buttress
★★★★
No pitch-by-pitch record survives for this route. If you have climbed it, the logbook wants your topo.
Approach
From Mukut on the Nenek Semukut trail towards the towers, then break off for the North Tower and pick “the path of least resistance up the nicest-looking rock” – the buttress has no formally marked approach. See North Tower.
Character
“Happy Buttress” — the first ascent of the unclimbed North Dragon’s Horn, following the longest swathe of good rock on the formation. It essentially follows the buttress just left of the right skyline as seen from Mukut.
Gear
Double set of cams, one #3 and one #4 Camalot, set of stoppers, lots of runners, hand drill.
R/X protection. All belays are natural — only a few bolts were placed on rappel. Falls on this route have serious consequences.
From the first ascensionists
“The summit is somewhat unremarkable unless you climb a tree.”
Remote and committing. Emergency contact Tam Haja +60 12-919 0785 — rescue info.